Thursday, 29 April 2010

Single find

you never fully appreciate things till there gone... i just had five evenings in a row, same spot, same board... knowing last night would be the end of it, i stayed in ever increasing sized swell in ever decreasing visibility, trading super fun walls with a friend, the place reels pretty perfectly and i didn't once consider a leash. That was until due to thick fog, low light and predominately my lack of ability i went down, came up with about 5 foot of visibility and no board in sight. During the long swim in expecting never see it again (being in a river mouth on a dropping spring tide) i started thinking about the little single fin that had been going so well this past week, and why it had sat in my garage unridden for most of the winter replaced by another board. By now i'm already worrying how quickly i can get a new one shaped or if i can even remember the dimensions. 20 minutes of crap bodysurfing attempts later i was so elated to see something in amongst the rocks knocking from side to side. i'm now way more appreciative of the little single fin and promised not to leave it in the garage for so long again

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